We leave for Argentina on December 8th. I've been reading the maps and found some evocative places; Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Distress), Last Hope Sound, Islet of Madmen, Desolation Island, Obstruction Sound, Puerto Eden all give a taste of the welcome that met the pioneers. My favourite discovery so far is the single Yahgan Indian word Mamihlapinatapai which means

' to look at each other, hoping that either will offer to do something which both parties much desire but are unwilling to do'